{"id":2217,"date":"2022-03-17T10:30:31","date_gmt":"2022-03-17T09:30:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/?p=2217"},"modified":"2025-10-08T12:02:24","modified_gmt":"2025-10-08T10:02:24","slug":"neapol-co-videt-a-je-treba-se-ho-opravdu-bat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/?p=2217","title":{"rendered":"Neapol – Co vid\u011bt a je t\u0159eba se ho opravdu b\u00e1t?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Hned na \u00favod odpov\u00edm na p\u00e1r kli\u0161\u00e9 ot\u00e1zek. Je \u0161pinav\u00fd? I ano i ne. Je nebezpe\u010dn\u00fd? I ano i ne. Je hezk\u00fd? I ano i ne. Vr\u00e1til bych se sem je\u0161t\u011b jednou? \u2026 rozhodn\u011b Ano!!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ur\u010dit\u011b je to jedine\u010dn\u00e9, specifick\u00e9 m\u011bsto, kter\u00e9 v cel\u00e9 It\u00e1lii nem\u00e1 podobu. Mo\u017en\u00e1 trochu se mu podob\u00e1 sicilsk\u00e9 Palermo, ov\u0161em v Neapoli je c\u00edtit ve vzduchu n\u011bco jin\u00e9ho. Je to mix chudoby, historie, bohatstv\u00ed, kriminality, hrdosti, moderny, fotbalu,\u2026 prost\u011b jedine\u010dn\u00fd! Pokud se bude\u0161 d\u00edvat, srovn\u00e1vat a hodnotit ka\u017edou mali\u010dkost, a\u0165 u\u017e je to st\u00e1nek s j\u00eddlem, kostel, hrad, oby\u010dejn\u00e1 budova, ale i samotn\u00e9 obyvatele tak se ti ur\u010dit\u011b nebude l\u00edbit. Av\u0161ak v celkov\u00e9m \u0161ir\u0161\u00edm kontextu v\u0161e toto do sebe perfektn\u011b zapad\u00e1 a vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed jedine\u010dnou atmosf\u00e9ru m\u011bsta, kterou si ur\u010dit\u011b zamiluje\u0161.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Leti\u0161t\u011b m\u00e1 Neapol p\u011bkn\u00e9, modern\u00ed s v\u00fdbornou polohou, jeliko\u017e se nach\u00e1z\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo ve m\u011bst\u011b. Nemus\u00ed\u0161 se tedy p\u0159epravovat je\u0161t\u011b dal\u0161\u00ed hodinu. Z leti\u0161t\u011b chod\u00ed shuttle bus p\u0159\u00edmo do centra resp. k hlavn\u00edmu vlakov\u00e9mu n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. Stoj\u00ed asi 500m p\u0159\u00edmo naproti odletov\u00e9 hale. Tak\u00e9 na stejn\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b stoj\u00ed i dal\u0161\u00ed \u201e\u017eivnostn\u00edci\u201c, kte\u0159\u00ed obsluhuj\u00ed mini vany a tak\u00e9 v\u00e1s svezou do m\u011bsta. J\u00edzdenka stoj\u00ed stejn\u011b 5 \u20ac jako v autobuse. J\u00e1 jsem vyu\u017eil pr\u00e1v\u011b tuto slu\u017ebu a v pohod\u011b, \u017eiji \ud83d\ude0a. Pokud pokra\u010dujete d\u00e1l na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Amalfi, nebo k Pompej\u00edm \u010di sopce Vesuv tak pr\u00e1v\u011b odtud odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed vlak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Co je vid\u011bt?
Ze \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed stanice je to do centra jen kousek. I kdy\u017e centrum to je vlastn\u011b zm\u011b\u0165 v\u0161elijak vypadaj\u00edc\u00edch uli\u010dek, kter\u00e9 jsou tvo\u0159eny bary, street food-mi, re\u0161tikami a mal\u00fdmi obch\u016fdky. Samotn\u00fd Neapol nenab\u00edz\u00ed n\u011bjak\u00e9 bohat\u00e9 kulturn\u00ed d\u011bdictv\u00ed. Tak\u017ee asi t\u011b zklamu pokud se chyst\u00e1\u0161 poohl\u00ed\u017eet si historick\u00e9 budovy, pam\u00e1tky, sochy \u010di kostely. Toto nen\u00ed \u0158\u00edm ani Florencie \u010di Mil\u00e1n. Ale zase abych neodrazoval, kdy\u017e pojede\u0161 po Via dei Tribunali tak ur\u010dit\u011b omrkni Neapolsk\u00e9 Duomo, Banksyho po\u010din Madonna con la Pistola, \u010di kapli Sansevero. Kostel\u00edk\u016f je zde docela dost, n\u011bkter\u00e9 jsou zven\u010d\u00ed dost zaj\u00edmav\u00e9, atypick\u00e9. Tak\u00e9 \u010dasto po m\u011bst\u011b natref\u00edte na so\u0161ku panny Marie, p\u0159i kter\u00e9 zvykne b\u00fdt i jin\u00fd stejn\u011b d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd patron – Diego Maradona.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na konci Via dei Tribunali je Mercato Pignasecca. Jedn\u00e1 se o otev\u0159en\u00fd trh s rybami, ovocem, knihami, oble\u010den\u00edm a pod. Kousek od trhu je n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed vlakov\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed Montesanto odkud jde zuba\u010dka na hrad Sant Elmo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uvnit\u0159 jsem sice nebyl ov\u0161em z hradu je velmi p\u011bkn\u00fd v\u00fdhled na m\u011bsto pod Vesuvem. D\u00e1 se sem dostat i p\u011b\u0161ky, j\u00e1 jsem tuto cestu zvolil sm\u011brem dol\u016f. Pokud bude\u0161 pokra\u010dovat do \u010dtvrti Quartieri Spagnoli, kter\u00e1 le\u017e\u00ed pod hradem, vychutn\u00e1\u0161 si atmosf\u00e9ru fanou\u0161k\u016f Partenopei. V\u0161ude vis\u00edc\u00ed vlajky klubu, street art-om posprejovan\u00e9 budovy a portr\u00e9ty nesmrteln\u00e9ho Diega.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e1sledn\u011b z t\u00e9to \u010dtvrti se m\u016f\u017ee\u0161 vydat na jih sm\u011brem k p\u0159\u00edstavu. Projede\u0161 vedle Galerie Umberto I, kter\u00e1 se n\u00e1padn\u011b podob\u00e1 Galerii Vitto Emanuele v Mil\u00e1n\u011b. D\u00e1le na Piazza del Plebiscito, kde se nach\u00e1z\u00ed kr\u00e1lovsk\u00fd pal\u00e1c a\u017e doraz\u00ed\u0161 k promen\u00e1d\u011b v p\u0159\u00edstavu, kter\u00e1 vede k pevnosti Castel dell Ovo. Hrad byl v dob\u011b Covid pandemie uzav\u0159en, ale iz venku je p\u011bkn\u00fd. Pokud si chce\u0161 zp\u00e1tky do centra zkr\u00e1tit cestu odvez se m\u00edstn\u00edm metrem a rozhodn\u011b zaje\u010f na stanici Toledo. Zjist\u00ed\u0161, \u017ee stanice metra nemus\u00ed b\u00fdt jen \u0161ed\u00e1 a betonov\u00e1, kdy\u017e se do toho pust\u00ed modern\u00ed um\u011blci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Co j\u00edst?
Pizzu, pizzu, pizzu!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u017edy\u0165 pr\u00e1v\u011b tady se narodila ta prav\u00e1 pizza, jej\u00ed\u017e barvy tvo\u0159ily \u010derven\u00e1 (raj\u010data), b\u00edl\u00e1 (mozzarela) a zelen\u00e1 (bazalka) \u2013 jako italsk\u00e1 trikolora. V\u0161ude po m\u011bst\u011b jsou r\u016fzn\u00e9 street food st\u00e1nky ov\u0161em pokud chce\u0161 ochutnat tu origin\u00e1ln\u00ed tak hledej ozna\u010den\u00ed Vera pizza Napoletana. Pizza u\u017e nikdy nebude jako d\u0159\u00edv. Tak\u00e9 ur\u010dit\u011b ochutnej Arancini. Typick\u00e9 j\u00eddlo na jihu It\u00e1lie. Jedn\u00e1 se o sma\u017eenou r\u00fd\u017eovou kuli\u010dku pln\u011bnou nap\u0159. raj\u010daty, s\u00fdrem, masem, houbami, rybami, \u2026 Krom\u011b toho Neapol nab\u00edz\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed klasiky jako v\u00fdborn\u00e9 t\u011bstoviny a jeliko\u017e le\u017e\u00ed u mo\u0159e tak ryby a mo\u0159sk\u00e9 plody. Pokud se bude\u0161 cht\u00edt osv\u011b\u017eit p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm pit\u00edm tak ochutnej citr\u00f3novou variantu obl\u00edben\u00e9ho Aperolu, tzv. Limone Spritz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

I kdy\u017e jsem za celou dobu nem\u011bl \u017e\u00e1dnou nep\u0159\u00edjemnou zku\u0161enost p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1m p\u00e1r doporu\u010den\u00ed:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nenav\u0161t\u011bvuj tmav\u00e9 lidupr\u00e1zdn\u00e9 uli\u010dky
Ve \u010dtvrti Quartieri Spagnoli, kdy\u017e uvid\u00ed\u0161 vlajku \u201eUltras\u201c tak tam rad\u011bji necho\u010f a pokud na tebe bude n\u011bkdo k\u00fdvat tak ta vol\u00e1 na drogy.
Ve\u010der je v uli\u010dk\u00e1ch plno lid\u00ed tak\u017ee bezpe\u010dnost je relativn\u011b ok, p\u0159esto se dr\u017e bodu 1.
Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b plat\u00ed, \u017ee nen\u00ed t\u0159eba \u201edr\u00e1\u017edit hada\u201c \u010dili vystavovat na odiv sv\u016fj Ajfon, pen\u011b\u017eenku a pod.
A kdy\u017e ve\u010der bude\u0161 ve m\u011bst\u011b sly\u0161et oh\u0148ostroj, necho\u010f ho hledat, to jen p\u0159i\u0161la z\u00e1silka drog.
Ur\u010dit\u011b doporu\u010duji vyu\u017e\u00edvat mapy v mobilu. N\u011bkolik uli\u010dky vypadaj\u00ed stejn\u011b a ob\u010das je obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9 se v nich orientovat.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hned na \u00favod odpov\u00edm na p\u00e1r kli\u0161\u00e9 ot\u00e1zek. Je \u0161pinav\u00fd? I ano i ne. Je nebezpe\u010dn\u00fd? I ano i ne. Je hezk\u00fd? I ano i ne. Vr\u00e1til bych se sem je\u0161t\u011b jednou? \u2026 rozhodn\u011b Ano!!! Ur\u010dit\u011b je to jedine\u010dn\u00e9, specifick\u00e9 m\u011bsto, kter\u00e9 v cel\u00e9 It\u00e1lii nem\u00e1 podobu. Mo\u017en\u00e1 trochu se mu podob\u00e1 sicilsk\u00e9 Palermo, ov\u0161em […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[936],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2217","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-business"],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2217","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2217"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2217\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2217"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2217"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zprumyslu.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2217"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}